Malta

Traveler: Danielle

When: September 2021

Overall Experience

This historic Mediterranean isle may be overlooked if not for the countless cruise day trippers but there is more than enough to see and do here to make it a destination in its own right. Malta has gorgeous waters, breathtaking views, magical cities, incredible archeological sites and friendly people.

Where to Stay

We found a charming guesthouse in the heart of Valletta run by a wonderful husband and wife team called the Valletta Lucente. The building dates back to the 17th century and was lovingly restored by the owners, including a few construction stoppages due to an archeological significant well found on site. The rooms are unique and comfortable. The breakfast is fantastic and the location can’t be beat!

One thing to note, if you are taking a cab from the airport, the car may not be able to drop you directly at the front door due to the charming windy, hilly and pedestrianized streets in the old town. My advice is to pack accordingly because you will most likely be dragging your suitcase uphill over cobblestones.

Things to Do

St. John’s Co-Cathedral

Probably the most visited tourist site in Valletta, the cathedral is a architectural (designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar) and cultural marvel. Construction was completed in 1578 but the interior got a glitzy makeover in the 1660s to compete with other Roman churches of the time. The entire floor is marble and consists of over 400 tombs. They also display Caravaggio’s masterpiece “The Beheading of John the Baptist.”

It’s an absolute must see when in the capital city! It’s open Monday through Saturday and costs 15 euro to visit.

Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens

The Upper Barrakka gardens are a public park at the highest point of the city walls which provide a gorgeous view of the city, harbor and sea. There’s a massive central fountain and a café where you can enjoy people watching and a nice breeze. The lower gardens also offer sea views and more greenery.

If you time your visit right, this place is perfect for sunrise/sunset and they set off cannons everyday at noon and four pm.

Mdina

Nicknamed the “Silent City” due to the lack of inhabitants, Mdina is a stunning fortified city founded in the 8th century. The most visited sites are the main gate, St. Paul’s Cathedral and the locations filmed during Game of Thrones. We arrived by bus and spent a few hours wandering the narrow alleyways enjoying the picturesque squares and colorful doorways. We got caught in a rain storm and waited it out at Coogi’s with cold beer and delicious snacks. It truly is a stunning city and a must visit when in Malta!

Hagar Qim

We made our way via bus to the hot, dusty ruins of Hagar Qim which overlooks the vast sea and close to the Blue Grotto. This megalithic UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to 3600 BC! It’s theorized to have been a temple complex but no human remains have ever been found on the site. Entrance fees are 10 euro for adults and it’s well worth it to explore, visit the museum and enjoy the beautiful view.

Hal Saflieni Hyopgeum

Another unique and world renowned archeological site in Malta is the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum. This is a stone age underground cave system that was used as a burial complex dating back to 4,000 BC. There are several rooms to walk through, including the Oracle room which has incredible acoustics, going 10 meters into the ground. The site was accidently found in 1902 when builders were laying a foundation for a housing subdivision, unfortunately completely destroying the entrance. The Malta Heritage group has taken tremendous care of this site since then enabling future generations to study this unknown civilization.

Tickets must be purchased in advance to visit the Hypogeum.

Take a Boat Trip

A trip to the island of Malta wouldn’t be complete without a dip in the crystal blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. There are a ton of different options, including private charters, group trips, and diving excursions. Our trip was a half day and took us to the island of Gozo and a few stops along the island where we could jump in and explore some sea caves and sea critters.

Where to Eat and Drink

Palazzo Preca

Set in a 16th century palatial building, Palazzo Preca delivers authentic Maltese cuisine with a modern twist. The restaurant is led by the Preca sisters who learned their love of cooking from their beloved late father.

The restaurant is beautiful and the food is delicious. We tried the sea bass and pork belly and washed it down with a $13 bottle of rose. Make sure to save room for dessert! This place is popular so book in advance and you can even purchase their cookbook!

Taste

With a focus on fresh, local ingredients, Taste provides a seasonal flavorful menu that highlights Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine. Since it’s the local speciality, we tried the rabbit and pasta with a rabbit ragu sauce. The food and ambience were delightful!

Vino’s Cafe Bar

The most charming aspect of Valletta happens when the cruise ships leave and the sun goes down. Once nightfall hits, all of the bars and restaurants in the narrow, hilly, alleyways expand their footprints to the sidewalks and streets. They add tables and cushions so patrons can sit outside and enjoy the views and city life.

We stopped at Vino’s Cafe Bar and did just that. Each tiny “table”, in this instance an old beer crate, has a QR code to place your order while you sit on the street steps with provided cushions. The servers were friendly and the atmosphere was very laid back.

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